Matcraftou

joined 1 year ago
[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 8 points 4 months ago

Please bring back this design language ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿป

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 22 points 7 months ago (11 children)

Is this true??? If so WHY THE F... ARE WR STILL USING THE CURRENT CALENDAR.

Honestly I would be all for a new calendar if this is true

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 5 points 9 months ago (1 children)

I am not asking for you to make one, I just search for one, I couldnt fidn anything exacly like this during my research

 

Hello I am looking for a design for an electronic box, the requirements are:

-EXTERNAL

-Must fit a buck converter, pi 3B, mainboard and psu

-It does not require a screen mount

 

So someday ago I tried to fit in the "Back Mounted Electronic Box By Teaching Tech" On my Ender3 (OG). Only problems..... 1st: The box would not fit (The tolerances on my printer are awful) so I spent 2hrs sanding down the box. 2nd: The printer would not turn on, it took me a day to realize that I wired the cooling fan BACKWARDS.

My objective in this Project is to gain Cable Management on my printer (Which is now far worse than before btw, will try to fix) and I am running Klipper on a [RASPBERRY PI 3B+] (do you see where I am going?)

So I try to reduce the amount of unnecessary cables AND I WAS WONDERING (Since I saw the fact on a Teaching Tech video) if I could connect the raspberry pi power directly From the motherboard (SKR MINI E3 V2.0) to the PI's gpio to power it.

So my question is:

On what ports should I connect the two (+5V and GND) cables ON THE MOTHERBOARD and THE PI'S GPIO.

If you did not understand something feel free to ask me.

Video link: https://youtu.be/yW9ovo9CHi0?t=320

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 1 points 10 months ago

Wow, exactly like me

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 4 points 10 months ago

AAAH SHIT HERE WE GO AGAIN...

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 1 points 10 months ago

No it's just a stock sprite pro extruder upgrade kit that I bought directly form creality.

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 1 points 10 months ago

Ooh I might PID TUNE it buuut soon I want to go with a stainless steel nozzle. So you know... I will even go with a high flow one.

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 1 points 10 months ago (2 children)

I already printed a temp tower and NO temps from 220 to 250 worked well

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 1 points 10 months ago

Oh I plan getting the dual z as well lol. I tried input shaping and pressure advance. As far as I am concerned I setup pressure advance and it has been going well.

But with input shaper I did not manage to get it working, but in my current setup I believe it is unnecessary because my enclosure is FAR to wobbly and the printer vibrations goes to the entire house, I plan on printing springy feet and attaching the enclosure to the wall so that it does not move.

So my vibrations is so bad that I need physical upgrades to even get it working... And an accelerometer

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 2 points 10 months ago

Oh don't worry my z offset is set tight! And for the heat block I always undertihhgened and it leaked everywhere so now I tighten it firmly but not too much to the point of stripping the block

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 2 points 10 months ago (2 children)

So for the mods:

All in one rear mounted electronics box by Teaching Tech. Glass bed. Skr mini e3 v2. Sprite pro dd extruder. Klipper. Metal bed knobs and springs. PETG printed rear left tension remover. Crtouch. Ikea lack enclosure (not completely done YET). Others I might have missed so I guess it's not important ยฏ_( ใƒ„ )_/ยฏ

[โ€“] Matcraftou@lemmy.world 1 points 10 months ago (5 children)

For the crash my hotend just untightened lowering it lower than the bltouch. I use klipper now so the mainboard firmware akaik isn't responsible for a lot. I have done A LOT of mods which I will list in a reply. For manually level the bed, I just probe 5p times my bed with abl, look at the graph and adjust the knobs in consequence...

Yeah I know it's hard to troubleshoot without being there,trust me,trust me...

Thanks for your help I guess my filament is better at 280C ยฏ_( ใƒ„ )_/ยฏ

 

OK (I'm the same guy who posted with the petg not sticking) Before Yesterday I bought overture petg and I was deceived because I had all kinds 1f issues... But then I tried to put the bed at 90C and the nozzle at like 280 ant it worked... How come i have to print this hot ๐Ÿ”ฅ?

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