this post was submitted on 10 Jul 2023
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Just picked up an APC 48u server rack. There were no pictures of it in the post and I did not notice until I got it home and set up, that the rack rails have threaded holes instead of square cage nut holes. I can’t seem to determine the thread size and pitch, and have a thread gauge coming. Until then, does anyone know anything about this? The people I grabbed it from had used self tapping machine screws and drove them in with an impact wrench. Is this what APC had intended, or is there some $300 proprietary screw I have to buy from them?

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[–] gripworks@lemmy.world 7 points 1 year ago (1 children)

While I can't speak for your rack in particular, most pre threaded racks are either 10-32 or 10-24 screws.

You can buy them easily on Amazon.

I work in television, and in our equipment room we have 50 racks that are pre threaded. And we use these: [Amazon link](Penn Elcom S1032/HP/WA/100 High Point Rack Screws with Washers - Set of 100 https://a.co/d/g13kPzw)

[–] snekerpimp@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

This is what I thought too, but both #10 threaded bolts I have are too small, one will thread, the 24 ones I believe, but you can wiggle them, enough to wiggle them out with out turning them.

[–] EmoPolarbear@lemmy.emopolarbear.com 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

They're 12-24, we use these at work.

[–] snekerpimp@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (2 children)

#12-24 are way to big, can’t even get them to catch the first thread.

[–] twack@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I know you said this is wrong, but my APC racks that look just like that also use 12-24 pilot point screws. They do have a little cutting notch that clears out the paint when you screw them in though

[–] snekerpimp@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

This is honestly the answer I was looking for. Someone who has this in service. Thank you so much. I’ve seen these bolts on APCs website, I was thinking it was for cutting the powder coat but wanted to make sure. Thank you again!

[–] jake_jake_jake_@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

12-24 from a telco guy, buy a 12-24 tap to help take the paint off

[–] snekerpimp@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

Heading to the depot as we speak. Thank you

[–] scrubbles@poptalk.scrubbles.tech 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I learned this the hard way, there is a difference between a "data rack", which is the one with cage screws, and a "network rack", which comes with the threaded machine screws. I believe switches have standardized screws

[–] snekerpimp@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

I will try and attack it from this angle. Thanks for the input!

[–] SheeEttin@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Rack screws are pretty standard. You should be able to get a big pack for cheap from the usual online suppliers. Looks like you would want M6x16mm screws.

[–] snekerpimp@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I have m6 cage nuts from my last rack and they are WAY too big. An M5-0.8 will thread about half way in and then bind, making me think it’s a thread pitch issue?

[–] tburkhol@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

If they're #10 (US) screws, they'd be 4.8mm major diameter and 24 or 32 threads per inch, so something like M4.8-1.06 or M4.8-0.78. If M5-0.8 thread half way, it sounds more like 10-32.

If you're outside the US, that might be why the previous owners resorted to the ugga-dugga. That will (probably) have wrecked those holes for either their factory pitch or whatever the owners used. You might consider getting a 5MM drill and a 6mm hand tap. You might have fair luck with 10-32 screws, depending on how hard they are to get in your country.

[–] snekerpimp@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

In the US, figured they were a bizarre metric thread someone hammered a sae thread into. #10-24 is sooooo loose though, it’s hard to imagine they would design it with that much slop.

[–] Saik0Shinigami@lemmy.saik0.com 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

No idea on the screw question... but the labels are off by one screw spacing. The holes that are "close" are where the U labels should change.

[–] snekerpimp@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

Yea, it’s only on that one bracket too, keen eye.