Thurkeau

I'm looking for some help researching how to clean long tubes, such as maybe 1/4 inch pickup tubes for a water pump that may be 20 feet long. I've been able to find hydration bladder cleaning kits that allow for cleaning the first 2 or 3 feet of these tubes, but beyond some sort of high pressure/high flow system with high caustic cleaning solutions, I haven't found a good way to swab out a long tube.

I have wondered many times how a human would fare if the kidneys dumped urine into the start of the large intestines somewhere about the appendix instead of into a bladder to be sprayed out. I'm assuming water would be reabsorbed and slower to process out, primarily through sweat and evaporation from the lungs, and maybe diarrhea, though it may be that other waste products, such as salts or ureas may be absorbed into the large intestines instead of being ejected, though I have no idea if it would, or if it would be ejected as intended. Do we have any biologists here that could give insight on if combining both waste paths into one would be advisable?

I just changed my stock Ender 3 hotend to a Volcano to get back to a more durable printhead after wrecking my Creality Spider head and have gotten it to where I can print something monolythic (like a brick or boot dryer type thing that doesn't have much actual detail) without much issue, but printing something with any detail, such as a character piece for DnD results in an absolute whispy disaster. I'm still trying to print stock recommended speeds and stock temperatures (PLA at 200C, PETG at 240C, etc at 50 to 75mm/s) and retract from none to 9mm trying to find something that works. Nothing does so far, even when I go to playing with temps (PETG 200-260C, PLA 180-240C) Where should I set my baseline settings to be able to get close to the CR-10 head that I started with? I originally upgraded to the Spider, which is now discontinued, because of printing ASA and the CR-10 creating a lot of jams as the bowden tube degrades inside. I have also heard good things about the Volcano and was curious about them. I'm still running the stock extruder, btw. I'm betting my problem is simply that I don't know how to use this head yet, though I guess I could have gotten a dud.

I'm wanting to make a fairly basic SHTF survival kit for recovering from an incident in either the Alabama forest or in town, and intend to fit it with some basic firestarting in a container meant for a UCO match kit. I still intend to carry a few matches, as well as some sort of small cutting tool, maybe a shelter type item, and in general enough tools and material to get myself reoriented and to where I can use available materials to fashion additional tools from available material in the area in the event of something like an auto accident. 0F is flippin' cold for me and probably just below what I would see for lows, though 100F does happen in the summer. I'm not thinking too much about signaling and noisemaking at this time, so that can probalby be moved to my backpack kit. I would put items on my keyring except that I think I am likely to leave my keys in the vehicle if I did have to GTFO, which I did have to do with a car fire one time. (Was not injured in car fire, fortunately. Also had family nearby to take me the few miles I had left to get home.) Since I have largely forgotten many of my survival skills I haven't thought about in awhile, I will be spending some time trying to get to where I am not so woefully unprepared. Suggestions on what to fit in the match box?

Match box I am using: https://www.amazon.com/UCO-Stormproof-Waterproof-Matches-Strikers/dp/B00773VVHO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2TN2JNYDCSVP0&keywords=uco+matches+stormproof&qid=1689487019&sprefix=uco+matc%2Caps%2C104&sr=8-2