j4k3

joined 2 years ago
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[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 2 points 4 hours ago

It is probably just a me thing, but I had a couple of times in my life where I was in the mindset of putting myself out there, and those were dark times. I never had good results. All of my good long term relationships came from times when I encountered someone adjacent to my other interests.

We are both likely grossly oversimplifying the spectrum of potential human experience. Like I can fake extraversion or play like other types of people than my true introverted self. If I keep my thoughts mostly to myself I become very mysterious to any potential partner because of my scope of hobbies and interests. However, I actually need someone that I can talk to openly and constructively across all of my interests, a person that has a similar scope of their own independent interests. That is something I have learned the hard way. I eventually end most long term relationships when I feel held back by what amounts to a muse. They end up limited to a chapter of my life but not a fully storied main character as I evolve.

Anyways, my point is that when I actively went looking with the purpose of meeting people, I had a terribly disappointing and depressing experience. Maybe an extrovert would have a different experience. To me, shopping for people in places where people shop will likely (stereotypically) yield a shopping type of person that will likely continue to shop or find an irresistible bargain at some point.

The best experiences I had were from those I met that were in coplanar orbits to some interest I had. What I really need has been someone motivated by slow persistent but insatiable curiosity and abstract awareness. I don't know if I ever would have found such a person in my past life, but the feeling of being held back by someone that lacks the curiosity to grow in parallel with me is untenable and empirically worse than being alone.

It doesn't matter now that I'm physically disabled with my specific limitations. I'm now content with being alone. I feel it would be unfair to force someone to watch me fall apart and die young due to the shell of who I am now after what I barely survived. This place, through the delay of typed thoughts, is the only place a simulacrum of my former self still exists through the haze of chronic sleep deprivation and pain. So I have no skin in the game, only a reflection on past life experiences free from the addiction of relationships.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 2 points 8 hours ago (3 children)

Not really the point of what I am saying. I am speaking for the other person too without bias or assumptions and I am not pushing anyone to conform to some stereotype. If you're happy wearing dirty shirts, not showering, and staying at home, that is perfectly valid. You can and should just be yourself. If you feel the need to be someone else or wear any mask of assumption or conformity, you're potentially hurting someone else and offering a fake version of yourself. If you're lonely, pursue your curiosity in spaces where other people interact. Don't just go to where you might find people. You do not exist in that space; that is not you. On a subtle non obvious level, going to a space for not you reasons like this is predatory.

I am actually saying, you're allowed to be happy or content with whatever state of self awareness and intelligent engagement you push yourself to achieve. The pursuit of raw self motivated curiosity is the only way to expand self awareness from within and grow. When motivated purely from within one's self, one will eventually achieve one's true potential while being true to self.

No one deserves to partner with someone that later never showers and never leaves the house after they remove the mask of their true self.

So you see, I'm saying the same thing but with the nuance of the best interests of all parties involved. Don't tell people to conform to combat loneliness. Make an attempt to inspire their curiosity and self growth if you feel like you've spotted some inadequacy, but ultimately let them be themselves so that they are not masking to hurt someone else.

Relationships certainly can and do change people, but let those that want to change someone find their query in the true depths of the coal mine if they choose lest they unwittingly find themselves on an impossible journey to the center of the Earth.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 0 points 18 hours ago (5 children)

why label and tribalism. just be you and do you things and if that intersects with someone else or not, who cares, you're just you as your true self. Leaving that space to find someone is silly nonsense that probably won't work out well because that person is not the real you. Pursue your curiosities until it takes you to your happy place

 

Call it something like greentext or confessions or something. Anyone posting is automatically set to Anonymous with no link whatsoever to the original account for admin or users to track or in the logs/activity pub etc. Like the person will not get replies, notifications on their account for the post, or the ability to reply as Anon. Simply streamline creation of a throw away account using the existing credentials of an existing account for post access and to give automod a chance to act. Maybe bar new accounts or below a certain threshold of engagement.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 0 points 1 day ago (1 children)

dichotomous thinking is the pretentiously fun term

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 12 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Leaves echo chamber ahhh WTF!

I post hobby stuff I'm working on. Everybody seems to care very little. I try to say stop being assholes and people hate for it.

Bias here seems typical for tech geekigarchy. After 2 years on Lemmy – echo chambers are also self selecting and self filtering.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 3 points 3 days ago

Joining over half a million homeless feral humans

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 6 points 3 days ago

"Randomize seams" uhh no, design parts with seams in mind if they are critical. I often add a small 0.3mm double chamfer "zipper" on a surface because it will accommodate the inconsistency and reduce it by forcing the root inside the body. I've made my own infill structures and patterns lately too.

 

I have heard the term news aggregator too. What do these definitions mean to you? How would you define the category?

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 4 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago)

You can just slap a dial gauge on the gantry and move the X/Y manually to see exactly what the deviation is. A decent second-hand dial gauge on eBay will run you $20 shipped.

If you get into the weeds, there is not an accurate method of triggering any form of mechanical stop that involves touch or a hall effect probe. You must get into optics for real accuracy, but that is nonsense for the materials and scope of printing. You would need to eliminate many other variables like the filament accuracy and how backlash and step accuracy are eliminated as issues.

As a former owner of an auto body shop with employees, most people do not know what clean is or how tooth is required. Like isopropyl alcohol has its place but is ultimately extremely weak at real cleaning problems. In automotive paint, silicone is a major problem. It primarily comes from tire dressing that makes them look slick black. The amount of effort it takes to remove that junk for automotive quality work is insane. Most chemicals just push the junk around but leaves or dilutes the issue often making it worse. One of the big tricks in automotive stuff is (to use a chemical cleaning step first but -) a few drops of dish soap in the wet sanding bucket. The light soap will keep the sand paper clean and working longer, but makes most work also cleaning work. Anyways, dish soap can be very effective. Acetone occasionally on a surface is also effective. Virgin lacquer thinner is the strongest common solvent but it can react with lots of stuff and you are unlikely to find true virgin solvent. The recycled stuff has a paint stripper component in it that will cause epic nightmares and reacts with almost all plastics. Acetone is much cleaner and consistent unless it is sold for junk like nail polish.

The general rule of thumb is to assume a mechanical tooth adhesion is the primary form of bonding unless there is a catalyst involved (2k urethane/epoxy primers/clear). That rule can easily apply to 3d printing and bed adhesion. I see a lot of the same types of effects from different surfaces and filaments. In automotive paint, there are even special adhesion promoters like Bulldog for spraying plastic parts ahead of other finishes. I had other adhesion promotion tricks too, like a mist coating of clear coat. The main trick with all automotive paint adhesion is to know what grit or "tooth" each thing you're spraying wants to grab onto and prep accordingly. So in 3d printing I use a similar approach with the general safe bet of sanding my smooth build plates to 600 grit. With sanding, do not start dirty, like you're trying to embed junk into the surface. Start clean, then knock off the shine to a smooth and consistent matte finish on the entire surface. When it comes to sanding like this, edges and any anomalies are absolutely forbidden to sand. Never touch your edges until last when everything else is done. Edges are always thinnest and most vulnerable to causing issues especially for the inexperienced. You match them to the rest of the matte surface carefully at the end.

Clean a smooth build plate with acetone like once or twice a year and then sand it to matte, clean that with dish soap, then alcohol with each print. That will completely eliminate contamination as a cause. If you have old skool clean glass with no coatings as a build plate, sanding is optional because you can use something like lacquer thinner or less effective acetone to get it absolutely clean.

Perfect first layers are possible with enough fussing with the software. If you really want to level the bed with hardware, use a dial gauge clamped to the extruder. That will remove all of the averaging and inaccuracies from probing if it is a quality gauge that is smooth and not sticky. You would need to get into optics for true accuracy like with closed loop control systems that are an order of magnitude more expensive than 3d printers. 3d printers are precision machines with no accuracy. The 0,0 home location is always slightly different, but all measurements are based upon this location. This issue becomes relevant with IDEX and CNC. Going well beyond these – in optics accuracy requires a defraction grading and alignment of light wave patterns. I so want to get into that one to grind my own telescope mirrors. Typically accurate machines use a flag of metal sticking out somewhere at a known location and an optical encoder switch that gets interrupted without anything touching as this is typically the closest you'll get to real accuracy down to the clock and instructions timing of the interrupt routine in the microcontroller.

If you have v-roller wheels on extrusions, one other major potential issue is that extrusions have a relatively large twist tolerance component in their specification. It is extremely difficult to detect this kind of twist, but it is a major potential issue. It generally requires a high metrology grade granite surface block and parallel sticks to measure twist in a precision instrument's linear bearings... as far as I understand it. I have seen such things being measured but have never done so myself.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 3 points 4 days ago (1 children)

Very cool. I was thinking about ways of making a potentiometer knob on an audio amp more visually interesting. The moire effect might be one to play around with.

I don't think I would trust this one in practice, but the effect is interesting. I found it far more necessary to learn the vernier scale with micrometers. It felt much more useful understanding the practical limitations and scope of when to use calipers versus a mic. While there are super accurate calipers, relatively cheap calipers and micrometers are far cheaper and easier for most people to access.

When it comes to radius gauges I trust these more than any of the others I have tried:

I know this kinda isn't the point, but using it as an excuse to share – the fishing leader line to hold a set like this is key to making them super handy. Unfortunately I have only used micrometers on a few 3d printing projects. Those are more used within the machining realm.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 1 points 4 days ago

here is what is inside

took way too long to figure out/make a small gif in Linux and even this one took hacking slow frames to get under 300kB with gnome screen capture, ffmpeg, gimp, and gifsicle to capture a simple FreeCAD turntable.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 1 points 5 days ago

Thanks. I'm not worried. I have nothing to lose and anyone scraping has enough to find me if they really wanted to. If they are after some physically disabled guy, hopefully they do a better job than the person that left me like this.

 

This has been through many days of iterations and designs. Most involved over center mechanisms or wheel levers before this design dawned on me. The bottom right is how it prints. The "spring" is a double forked 10mm bridge in the last few millimeters inside the enclosed print. The visible "clamp" is connected to the spring by forking into two paths that branch beside the tube that the spade terminal is inserted through. The clamping force is not great but it is sufficient for a reliable basic electrical connection for bench testing. The pictured driver is a very small tweeter and is barely held in place with both wires inserted between the print and spade terminal.

I wanted something that would fit on the faceplate of the little hacked audio amp enclosure I have been designing. I think 6 of these will barely fit across the front and under the actual circuit board assembly.

This one might be worth the hassle of setting up an account and sharing on printables if it does not require the goggle server connection like it did in the past when I tried.

The thing is, I dial in my prints to 0.3mm clearances and this absolutely requires that clearance. I do not care to print other people's designs because most are really terrible for things like supports, designing for 3d printing, clearances, and general slop. I'll occasionally toss someone else's STEP or STL in FreeCAD and rebuild the thing but I usually just use some conceptual idea of anything I see elsewhere. I think with this one, I could share it as a negative Boolean STEP file to be most useful. Then it would only require others to import and do a boolean cut operation to use the design. Maybe I will do so if it works out well in my enclosure with 6 of these all resolving well and functional. What do you think, would you ever care to find and print something like this in one of your designs? Do you think anyone would even understand the value of printing such fundamental componentry instead of buying hardware and gluing it together with a 3d printed design? Like, this could easily be configured to use a loop of solid core copper wire as the connector terminal for a low voltage bench power supply that requires no other hardware.

Also, I had a rather irritating encounter with Dessalines (the Lemmy Dev) on ML a few days ago. I want to move off of Lemmy but I kinda like the rest of you, so maybe piefed is an option. I haven't looked into it deeply as I thought rust was worth supporting more, however empowering these guys as authoritarians is not on my list. I'm in a position to move this community if people want but like I always say, I'm just the janitor here. I do not matter. I would just as soon give this place to someone else if that is best for the community. I only want what is best for all, which is probably stability first and foremost, but if you feel otherwise, maybe mention it, maybe we'll make it happen.

 

Intending to reach anyone here with some product or industrial design chops but anyone with an input is welcome. I spent the day looking at all of the components I want to fit into an audio amplifier. It is somewhere around the size of a typical router. My ideas thus far are ehh at best. I just abstracted the realization that this is an issue common to most electronics products, so who does it best or what ideas do you like most for shapes and design?

 

0.25mm nozzle, clear PETG, Prusa, 6mm standard headphone jack, upcycled broken bluetooth headphones, three times larger battery, snap fit with no hardware, FreeCAD, 2nd print iteration, listening to it now, no tricks - it holds together firmly and is usable and actually sounds better than the original by a long shot from better headphone drivers I guess or proper soldering, oh and power button built into the flex of the design, OC only posted on Lemmy

 

CAD modeling and hacking some old junk audio stuff with help

 

Bonus internet points for cheapskates

 

Just looking for basic glassware, bunsen, distillation, and stir plate for working with simple stuff related to circuit board etching, tinning, through hole plating, and some reverse engineering stuff like dissolving epoxy chip packaging for die shots. I'd like to be able to shape some glass. Above all, I'm looking for cheap stuff that is barely adequate in the few hundred dollars class total. Like I have no issues hacking a thrift store hotplate with a rare earth magnet on a small motor. Are there any cheap options to stay safe and functional?

 

Lots of people seem to like custom keyboards and programmable HID widgets. Saw this and it seems interesting. Being Adafruit it is commercial on some level but also well documented for replication and mods that are more useful than the average shared project.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8RW3y0CIgw

YT description:

Build a 3D printed USB chorded keyset inspired by the original Doug Engelbert "Mother of all Demos" keyset from the 1960's. This 5-finger keyset lets you type without moving your hand, entering full words and phrases by pressing multiple keys simultaneously as a chord. Read more link below

Learn Guide https://learn.adafruit.com/usb-keyset

USB Keyset Learn Guide: https://learn.adafruit.com/usb-keyset/

 
 

I'm very picky about what I allow through a firewall, and deviant art is heavily integrated with the Israeli company Wix. More than I care to enable. Like there is some kind of code or executable between thumbnails and full images that requires trusting a wix server implicitly. I draw the line when the DNS listing could be accessed by other websites and is not just a media server or CDN. Anyways, is there anywhere else with ultra niche type science fiction stuff beyond childishness, fantasy, and franchises and some hard science fiction stuff like O'Neill cylinders?

 

Like if I was pressing a clay-like cardboard slurry into a prepared mold preped similar to a gel coated fiberglass mold, what might work well to seal or add a surface finish?

I could make a vacuum form for a thermoplastic wrap, but coating a mold first has long been a curiosity of mine. Foils and leaf seem obvious, but what about coatings?

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