3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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Assuming you're talking about FDM/FFF printing and not SLA or sintering:
There's a bit of a catch-22 when it comes to mating flat 3d printed surfaces: The face that's on the build plate will be the flattest and result in the smallest seam. It's also the face most likely to be dimensionally inaccurate because of elephant footing, which can result in a ridge at the seam. And the easy fix for having an elephant foot it adding a chamfer, which results in a big visible seam. So my actual advice is:
And if aesthetics are a high priority consider using an automotive filler primer (I buy it in spray cans) and then painting the piece after it's glued. Filler primer will help hide the seam and layer lines.