kalleboo
It's not so much "constantly leaving it plugged in" as "constantly leaving it at a high state of charge" (near 100%) which naturally follows from the first.
In recent versions of iOS and macOS, Apple have added features to keep the battery at 80% charge as much as possible for this very reason - it massively extends battery life to not be at 100% all the time.
Wiktionary, the free dictionary
Noun PC (countable and uncountable, plural PCs)
Initialism of personal computer.
A personal computer, especially one similar to an IBM PC that runs Microsoft Windows (or, originally, DOS), usually as opposed to (say) an Apple Mac.
1987, InfoWorld, volume 9, numbers 27-39, page 28: “For some of the imaging we do,” says Richard Miner, research manager at the University of Lowell's Center for Productivity Enhancement, “we are using both the Amiga and the PC [with the bridge card]. […]
2006, Sonia Weiss, Streetwise Selling On Ebay, →ISBN, page 89: In general, the prices for PC and Mac laptops can be competitive, […]
2010, Ann Raimes, Maria Jerskey, Keys for Writers, →ISBN, page 297: Versions of Word for PC and Mac It is not unusual to find both Mac and PC computers in college computer laboratories, so you may need to become familiar with both Word for PCs and Word for Mac.
There isn't a standard that is broadly-adopted, but NUT (https://networkupstools.org/) has reverse-engineered drivers for nearly every UPS out there, usually each brand has their standard so as long as the brand is supported it will work. (NUT is also what TrueNAS, Synology, QNAP, etc use internally for their UPS support)
I've had good luck with using NUT with APC UPSes (both consumer models and buying used enterprise rack-mount models).
One cool thing you can do with NUT is share the UPS state over the network, so that multiple machines can respond to the power state instead of just the machine that is plugged in via USB directly.
Yeah after doing a bunch of testing what I settled on was a used ThinkCentre Tiny with a dual 10G NIC running OpenWRT, and then a cheap Chinese PoE switch with 4x2.5G ports and 2x10G SFP+ ports. Router and my main computer on 10G, NAS and Wi-Fi (UniFi AP that I've had since before) on 2.5G, and then everything else is on a separate 1G switch.
For a home network, 2.5G LAN is really the sweet spot. The hardware is affordable now, the spinny drives in my NAS can't realistically do more than 200 MB/s for a real workload, there are no single-stream downloads online that are going to be faster (the fastest "normal" download I've seen is 2Gbit from Microsoft)
I just got upgraded to 10 Gbit internet the other week and was looking at routers, and it seems to be a surprisingly common configuration (or routers with 10 Gbit WAN and 2.5 Gbit LAN ports). I think router manufacturers are banking on 99% of people only caring about Wi-Fi and then being fooled by those "up to 7000 mbit over wifi!" numbers. And then due to scale those are the only chipsets that are affordable.
Another reminder to developers to not bother with public APIs, just screen-scrape or reverse-engineer the official app private API.
When I was following Synology communities closer, the common wisdom was that the expansion units weren't great in either performance, stability or cost, and you were better off buying a new, bigger unit and then selling your old one used to recoup the cost difference.
I'm also in the same position, I have a DS918+ that is full. It's also 6 years old and probably on the tail end of getting software updates so I'm weighing my choices...
The cheaper aliexpress item you actually want is this one, it will read the emarker and tell you the power/data rates it supports, if it supports thunderbolt etc https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007287415216.html
Some photos of it in action https://bitbang.social/@kalleboo/109391700632886806
The really janky ones you get with like USB gadgets like fans only have the 2 power lines hooked up and not the lines needed to communicate PD support, those will work exactly the same as the same janky USB A-microUSB cables they used to come with, supplying 5V/2A. You throw those away the second you get them and replace them with the decent quality cables you bought in bulk from AmazonBasics or something.
True but pretty much the only devices that need those are high-end SSDs and laptop docks and in both cases you just leave the cable with the device rather than pulling it out of your generic cables drawer.